With a heritage dating back centuries, a culture built on a farmhouse tradition and contemporary national awareness, Somerset can rightly claim to be the heartland of English cider, writes Gabe Cook.

For many consumers, the words ‘Somerset Cider’ probably conjure up images of the Wurzels, hay bales and labels on plastic tubs bought from the farm gate with ruddy-cheeked farmers.

For another generation, the phrase is more synonymous with the sweet offering of big brands.

But in an obscure shed on the edge of Somerton lies a Somerset cider maker that is producing ciders with real modern, craft credentials.

These are ‘new fashioned’ cider makers trying to engage with a new generation of curious customers that really care what goes into their pint.

(Image: PULPT) Say hello to Pulpt.

Pulpt are Al Collar and Jim Wakefield, a pair of ex-work colleagues who adore cider so much that they decided to spend some of their hard-earned money establishing a cidery in Somerset back in 2017. 

But why cider?

Al says, "Neither of us come from a long lineage of farmers, but we believe that real crafted cider is a drink that should be easily accessible and widely enjoyed for its sheer quality.

"At a time when authenticity and provenance is considered critical (just look at the craft beer boom!), true craft cider delivers this more than most drinks.

"It deserves a bigger role in today’s drinks offering.

"We wanted to make ciders with great taste, real authenticity and a modern look.

"We’re proud to say we’re true craft cider makers."

(Image: PULPT) So, what constitutes true craft cider?

"Well, it all starts with the apples," says Jim.

"These apples are more than simply the raw material for our cider making; each apple variety has its own character, personality and flavour.

"All our cider is from fresh-pressed apple juice, never from concentrate, which is hugely energy hungry, the cider is allowed to ferment for longer, naturally, at lower temperatures and then matured for a minimum of four months to enrich the flavours.

"We use classic, bold, flavoursome tannic-rich apples from orchards across Somerset and Devon, supporting local farmers."

Al and Jim are busy at work right now milling, pressing and fermenting this season’s apples.

Evoking great imagery with evocative names such as Yarlington Mill, Harry Masters Jersey, Improved Dove and Chisel Jersey, these apples are blended to create a range of different ciders that appeal to different consumers.

These offerings include rich and mellow (Flare), bone dry (Deuces Wild) and natural fruit flavoured (Melba). 

(Image: PULPT) As well as having real authenticity and provenance in how the cider is made, craft cider should look the part, too.

"We want our ciders to be bright, modern and distinctive - you won’t be seeing any tractors on our labels!" says Al.

He continues, "Craft ciders like ours are trying to reach younger consumers whose drinking repertoire is mixed between different drinks like craft beer, wine or spirits.

"We want our ciders to look good, taste good and make you feel good."

One of the great benefits of craft cider is that it has a small environmental impact.

Orchards provide havens for biodiversity and act as carbon sinks.

Milling, pressing and fermentation is done without any temperature control, using much less energy than brewing.

Even the spent apple pomace is put to good use – ending up in an anaerobic digester being turned into methane for green electricity or carbon dioxide for putting the fizz into cider cans!

Most crucially, craft is all about independence.

Pulpt is just Al and Jim, making their achievements, such as listings with Ocado and Tesco, all the more impressive.

They know their weaknesses and will occasionally seek third party support where they simply don’t have the time, such as sales support; however, the sense of achievement is also heightened when put into context of some of the challenges facing true craft makers, like Pulpt.

Some well-known Somerset ciders contain more than the recommended daily sugar intake for an adult in a single 500ml bottle.

This does nothing for cider’s reputation or the drinker’s teeth!

What’s more, in the UK, cider is legally allowed to have as little as 35% apple juice; the rest being water.

And yet there is no legal obligation for this information to be placed upon the label.

Despite these challenges, Al and Jim remain upbeat.

"We’re incredibly proud to call ourselves craft cider makers," says Jim.

"We believe that cider should have all of the respect and value of craft beer or wine, and we’re going to continue to work hard to make this happen."