Porlock Pilgrim's Trail: Horner and Luccombe circular

Porlock Pilgrim's Trail is a 29 mile loop visiting nine of Exmoor's churches and chapels including a tin tabernacle, England's smallest parish church, Lorna Doone's Oare church and two tiny half-forgotten chapels.

In 2022, Porlock Pilgrim's Trail was inaugurated with the hope that it would enable walkers to visit nine of these churches and chapels using ancient routes that have been walked and ridden by clergy and parishioners for hundreds of years. This month's short circular walk uses the Priestway which links Stoke Pero with Luccombe. The walk crosses some of Exmoor's stunning countryside – ancient oak woodlands, wild moors and high pasture – and visits two beautiful, and very different, old churches. Most religions include the tradition of pilgrimage and today the definition of who is a pilgrim is tricky to pin down. Perhaps all of us who gain strength, hope and a sense of well-being from our walking are, at heart, modern pilgrims.

Stoke Pero church is 309m above sea level making it the highest on Exmoor and the second highest in England. (Image: Alistair and Gill CampbelL) 1. Leave Horner car park by the car exit and turn left onto the road and then fork right at a small village green along the track signed Horner Woods, to cross Horner Water by a stone bridge. Continue ahead along Horner Combe through this 4000 acre National Nature Reserve. Horner Wood is an ancient oak woodland and a haven for bats and rare lichen; you may also spot Exmoor ponies wandering amongst the trees. Following the stream for about 35 mins/1.5 miles you reach a footbridge across Horner Water, signed Stoke Pero.

2. Turn left over the bridge and follow the path to climb through the wood. Eventually, keep right, signed with a blue arrow, to reach a field gate. Fork right along the boundary to a gate into a walled lane leading to Church Farm's yard. Cross the yard to reach a small lane and then turn left to reach Stoke Pero church.

Stoke Pero church is Grade II listed and, at 309m above sea level, the church is the highest on Exmoor and the second highest in England. The church has no electricity; many services are candle lit. On the wall is a list of Rectors that dates back to 1242.

The church's tower was built in the 13th century but the rest of the church was rebuilt in 1897 by the owner of the manor, Sir Thomas Dyke Acland. All the timber for the rebuilding of the church was carried up from Porlock by a donkey called Zulu; his picture, drawn by locally acclaimed artist and moor-dweller, Hope Bourne, hangs on one wall. During these building works three sets of human remains were uncovered from directly under the old north wall, suggesting that the 13th century church had been built on the site of an even older churchyard.

If you look at the gravestones some have rather odd sentiments on them, for example Jane Rawle: 'As I am now, so must you shortly be; Therefore prepare for Death and follow me'.

3. Retrace your steps through the farm and along the walled lane. Then keep ahead to cross three fields - do not re-enter the wood. At the third field, keep the fence to your right – watch for blue waymarks; there are wonderful views across Exmoor's hills and valleys. Cross Prickslade Combe, where once there was a remote farmstead, and two further fields before finally passing through a gate in the corner of the second field to enter a lane. Keep ahead, through another gate, signed Horner Hill and, at the end of the field, keep ahead to enter ancient oak woodland.

4. After passing a bench on your right – a great place for a rest and to take in the view - fork left downhill unsigned and not following the blue waymarks. After a path joins from the right take the next right downhill and then left, also downhill, now following the blue waymarks again. At the bottom cross the bridge over East Water and start the steep climb, signed Webber's Post.

A picture perfect welcome as you arrive into the village of Luccombe. (Image: Alistair and Gill CampbelL) 5. At the top of the climb, turn right on the surfaced path, signed with the Coleridge Way yellow feather. On reaching Webber's Post car park (there are few benches here, both on the trail and in the car park), turn left and cross the road. Then fork half right, away from the track, again signed with the yellow feather. Cross a second road and, at the back of the open area, turn left taking the good track downhill through oak and beech forest towards Luccombe. Enter this village of thatched sandstone cottages and, just before the church, take the footpath on your left signed to Chapel Cross. Now take the first gate on your right to enter the churchyard.

Walking through the beech woods as you follow the Priestway certainly surrounds you with nature! (Image: Alistair and Gill CampbelL) The church of St Mary the Virgin in Luccombe seems much too large for the village; a 1944 study recorded that there were just 51 adults and 23 children living in Luccombe. But the parish was once very large and extended west to include a third of Porlock; those who lived in Porlock's Doverhay area had to travel nearly three miles to church rather than walk 100 yards to Porlock's St Dubricius. The chancel is the earliest part of the church dating from around 1300 with the nave and tower being added around 1450. Neither the church nor the tower has any foundations.

If you lift the rug by the pulpit you will find a fine brass dedicated to William Harrison, a wealthy local farmer who died in 1615. Above, the roof bosses in the Nave show the heads of two women and two men, possibly the benefactors of the new 13th century glass in the south aisle's East Window.

6. Leave the churchyard through the gate that you arrived through and turn right along the path which shortly reaches a lane. Keep ahead on the tarmac lane for 250m and immediately after the crossroads, bear left through a gate into the wood. Now follow the track, keeping right at every junction until you eventually descend to a road. Turn left to enter the village of Horner once more.

The Pilgrim's Trail's website, porlockpilgrim.co.uk, contains lots more information about the entire 29 mile of the trail. You can also buy the Pilgrim's Trail guidebook on the site as well as from Porlock Information Centre or any Exmoor National Park Visitors' Centre. The book contains a page about each of the churches and chapels, a route description of the whole trail and links to downloadable .gpx mapping files.

There is a Pilgrim's Trail ink stamp in each church and chapel which can be used to record your walking progress. The Guidebook has a space at the top of each church and chapel description for you to place your stamp. When you complete the trail you can sign your name in the record book in Porlock church.

Some of the Pilgrim's Way follows the Priestway footpath (Image: Alistair and Gill CampbelL) COMPASS POINTS

Start Point: Horner National Trust pay-and-display car park

TA24 8HY; SS 8977 4557; ///plotted.smirks.backhand

Distance: 6.5 miles (10.5 km). Allow 3 hours. There are two short but steep climbs.

Map: OS Explorer OL9 (Exmoor)

Refreshments: There are two seasonal tea shops in Horner as well as pubs, cafes and shops in nearby Porlock (1.5 miles away). Stoke Pero churchyard and Webber's Post are both ideal picnic locations.